Saturday, October 30, 2010

Rain at a funeral is soooo cliché...

Nestor Kirchner, former president of Argentina passed away this Wednesday. And, as usual, I had to observe the reactions of the people as an outsider usually does. But first, lets do a little bit of research on Kirchner so that we know a bit better who we're talking about.


In the first incarnatios of his career both he and his wife, Christina (the current president of Argentina), were lawyers with a successful practice in their home of Rio Gallegos. Early on he was a follower of the Justicialist movement who were followers of the late Juan Peron. When democracy was restored to Argentina in 1983 he started his political career becoming Mayor of his town and later Govenor of Santa Cruz province where he was credited with restoring financial balance to the region.

During this time though the economy of the country was starting to tank. President Carlos Menem had been in power from 1989-1999 and was perceived to be corrupt and flamboyant. Fernando de la Rua was then elected but the measures he instituted to help the economy did no good and things got even worse. This eventually led to the November 2001 run on the banks and the government issued a limit and then outright ban on bank withdrawals in hopes of stemming the downward spiral. Of course, a stupid move like this led to rioting in December. De la Rua resigned later that month.

So, de la Rua's chief opponent in the previous election, Eduardo Duhalde (a member of both Menem and Kirchner's party) was installed as interim president. He went and abolished the fixed exchange rate that had previously been in place. Of course what happened was that the Argentine Peso rapidly lost about 2/3 of its value reducing most people's savings to next to nothing while allowing exporters (not your average Argentinian) to profit. (Turns out that Argentina was heavily import-dependent at this time.) Duhalde decided that he didn't want the job anymore (probably was afraid of being lynched) and moved the elections forward by 6 months.

This election happened to wind up being between Menem (again), Kirchner, and supposedly a number of other candidates. Menem got 24% of the votes, Kirchner 22%, and since it looks like they were the 2 front runners, there was going to be a run-off between them. Since Menem was still viewed with a lot of animosity and polls showed Kirchner winning with 30%-40% of the vote, Menem decided to withdraw from the race, essentially handing the election to Kirchner.

*Pause for commentary*

So, what we are basically saying here is that he seems to be a good guy but won the election by a fluke? You would think of someone who was actually quite loved by his people to have made a better showing in the election. Hmm...

*Resume study*

Here's what he had to start out with: Economic instability, a middle class that has in itself been dropped 3 or 4 levels, $178 Billion (American) in debt, and signs of malnutrition cropping up for those below the middle class. Good luck buddy!

So what is on the list of a guy with a huge problem and very little reputatio? Let's see...

#1) Clean house - Let's kick out 1/2 the Supreme Court, impeach some others, boot out most of the high-ranking (and supposedly corrupt) military officials, and replace most of the rest of the governemt with people from his own party.

#2) Declare Bankruptcy - Sorry IMF, Deal with it.

#3) Start ignoring the US - Why don't more countries do this? Let's focus more on our close neighbors and see what we can do to help each other out...

#4) Hmm... People didn't really 'vote' me into office. Let's campain with everyone during the midterm elections. Turned out pretty well for his party...

#5) Ok, things are starting to level out. Let's see if the IMF will bargain a bit and just take a lump sum payout... SWEET!

So, he's pretty popular now. Focus on fixing up your own house and worry about what the others say about it later. But after only 5 years and an extremely good popularity rating... DECIDES NOT TO RUN FOR RE-ELECTION. Leave on a good note? Wow... how much smarter can you get?!

But with all of that in mind, there are a number of negative things tinging his career as well. Cronyism, embezzelment, corruption, spying on and harrassing of political opponents, and using the state Intelligence Service for his own gain were just a few. And current president Christina is thought to have profited as well...

So that is your history lesson for the day. Now let's look a bit at culture.

Wednesday was a holiday for the national Census (They have the smart idea of making everyone stay at home and getting it all done in one day) and so there was no school. He passed away that afternoon and as I was walking to school the next day I found that Plaza de Mayo (right in front of the Presidential House- Casa Rosada) is crammed full with people and baricades. I have to walk all the way up this plaza, beyond, and back down again just to get to the school. Of course, wouldn't you know it but they have declared a national day of mourning and the school is closed! Reverse, do it all over again, and head home.

The plaza was filled with people, flags, signs, flowers, and all the traipsings of an American sports legend passing. It seems that the Argentines are very free with their emotions (not only in this instance, FYI). Lots of crying, weeping, shouting, cheering, chanting....






And then Friday, the day of his burial, it of course starts to rain... so cliché. And yet people lined the procession route. TONS of them. There were a number of times that it seemed like the people wouldn't let the hearse get through...



I made mention to some of the people that were sitting watching the affair with me on the TV that this would never happen in the US. First, you couldn't come within 100 yards of the coffin without Secret Service guards taking a running tackle on you. And then Americans are so subdued and somber about these things. You'd see everyone wearing black and with their lips shut. Maybe a few protestors (the ones that always look for something to protest) but nothing more...

So, Fuerza Christina! Nestor con Peron, la Puebla con Christina... (Nestor is with Peron, the people are with Christina)
Jumpn2nsanity

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Paperwork

Sorry all but there are no pretty pictures to look at today. So you'll need to either skip on until next time or actually get that brain working today!

I wanted to say a few quick words about paperwork. Most especially the paperwork that you need to take care of when you visit a foreign country. Well, maybe not visit because I could shlep around here long enough without doing it and not get in too much trouble I think. But since I am looking to stay here longer than my tourist visa I need to dance the "Bureaucratic Boogie." The only thing I can equate this to in the US is doing your taxes.Most people have a hard time with their taxes because it involves math which to most Americans may as well be a second language. It was never too difficult for me, even without paying soomeone else to do themfor me. Mainly I think it is because the government wants to make sure they get every penny they deserve, so they try and make the process as easy as (realistically) possible.

But here, they really don't need me to stay. Yeah, a couple of more US dollars injected into their economy sure as heck isn't going to hurt, but at the same time I'm no nuclear physicist or network software engineer. I really don't have too many skills that are in high demand. And if you really think about it, if they knew how much I talked and how annoying I can get... they probably would have denied me entry even before getting on the plane. But, their loss is America's gain! :-D Ja!

So anywho, I may have rambled about this before but even while I was still preparing in the states I was having an issue with this topic. I had to start getting things in order. First was the passport, fairly easy in and of itself, but it was a process just like any other and required time, money, and filling out forms in triplicate. Then was getting all of my school documents together (diplomas, transcripts, etc). Then my "Letter of Clearance" (your criminal background). Along with these I also had to get a certified copy of my birth certificate. And no bother that I have 3 copies already, this one has to be official which of course means that it has to come from your state of birth and I just so unluckily happened to be born in Hawai'i. Yeah, I'm still waiting on that form.

But then, after all of that these forms are still not complete. These all then need to be certified as official (even the official ones, mind you) for international purposes. Yeah, take them down to the State Attorney General's office and pay to get the Hauge Apostille affixed to them. More time, more money. So yeah, pain in the butt...

But get this... once I got here there were even still more forms that I needed to get! Letter saying that I had no criminal record here, letter of intent from the school that I will be attending, official documentation of where I am staying, and as it turns out, I forgot one form from the US that I need: Federal letter of clearance. Yeah, from the stinking FBI. Turns out that the embassy can help me with this so I'm good there and I don't even need to get that "certified." BUT!  (There's always a "but", or at least some ass in the room...) It turns out that I need to get it translated and the translation needs to be certified!

So, in short... you really better be wanting to move here. Because they are going to do everything they can to get you to leave! But on the bright side... I actually feel much safer here in some respects! Turns out that they are a bit more advanced than the US when it comes to fingerprint technology. Almost every government office here has a digital fingerprint reader! I have been printed numerous times already so you know I'm not going to be trying to steal anything!

Remember kids: Drugs are bad, mm-k?
Jumpn2nsanity

Monday, October 11, 2010

San Telmo

Ok, so I have recently moved from where I was living before (Boedo) to a hostel in another bario of the city (San Telmo).

Boedo (Before):



San Telmo (After):



As you can see the barios are not very far apart from each other but they are actually a world apart in a number of ways. First, even though they aren't far distant, it is almost impossible to walk from one to the other. Again, not that it's far, but that little area in between the two is Constitution. I've been told to compare it to southside LA. Don't go there unless you are looking to willingly give away all of your possessions and potentially your life at the same time. Subte, bus, or cab it.

They are also very different culturally. Boedo is quite laid back. Most of Baires is, actually. But especially Boedo. If I remember correctly Helena told me that is one of the more "mature" districts, in that the people who live there are working class families. Not too much hustle-bustle, the shops close at a respectable hour, and the people you see quite likely live there.

San Telmo on the other hand is a bit different. It was a really cool little area until I found out that it is one of the main tourist destinations of the city. Lots of cool little shops. The aviendas are quite small so traffic isn't as hellacious as the main streets of Boedo. And Parque Lezama is pretty darn big with a lot of cool things going on there. I am going to have to write an entire episode on the parque itself so you'll have to wait for that.

So one of the things that has me a bit concerned about this area is the number of tourists. Yes. I know. I don't actually live here, but I am trying to blend in and become a part of the community and the culture as best I can so I don't consider myself a tourist. Helena and I went out yesterday (10-10-10 woot!) wanting to just walk around, grab our daily litre of beer, and maybe chill out in the parque for a while. Well... This is what we were greeted with...



Yeah. That's a lot of people. Turns out on Sunday's that one of many markets lines Av Defensa. Shops are all open, craftspeople, traders, and all other sorts of people have booths, blankets, spots with their stuff laid out for sale.





All sorts of interesting stuff from jewelry, to handmade clothes, the ubiquitous mate gourds, knick-knacks, artistic-y things like paintings, photos, wire bug sculptures... Name it and you can prolly find it there. Great place to do your touristy shopping though I guess. And of course there was the ever present music from one small group of kids on guitars doing a damn fine rendition of some Rolling Stones songs, old guys singing Tango songs, what seems like the 5th capoeira group I've seen since coming here, and of course yet another Batuka group marching down the middle of the street...




One weird thing we did see was this guy doing a human statue/tin man routine on a box. *shrug* Takes all kinds I guess.



So hopefully it is just becase the weather is beautiful out and it was the day before a holiday that there was a crowd of people 3 miles long. If that is a weekly occurance I may not leave my room on Sundays. We'll see...

Remember kids: A captain always goes down with his ship. That's usually because he was the one dumb enough to steer it into a rock in the middle of the ocean in the first place. Good riddance, here's your Darwin award.
Jumpn2nsanity

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Primavera

Yeah, I haven't posted in a while. There's been lots of stuff going on and most of it wasn't picturable or even blogable so be glad that you had the time off. :-)

But I do want to apologize to everyone for a major concern that I have neglected to take care of. And that is the issue of the toilet water. I still have not had the opportunity (well, that would mean I haven't used the toilet since I've been here.) rather have not had the right mindset to empirically test to see whether the water circles the drain the other way. I will make sure to get on that ASAP.

But one wonderful thing that had been going on is Spring. Primavera here. Southern hemisphere = opposite seasons! Yes, we are just now leaving the depths of winter and the promise of beautiful weather is once again at hand. People are coming out of their hidey-holes, the trees are starting to flesh out, and the girls are wearing skimpier clothing!

I took a walk to the park the other day and shot some photos. As you can also see, I've been doing more with Photo-Chop as well. One thing that I have been told is that the entire city becomes pink as a result of the trees blooming. You can see it already in some of the photos. Enjoy!

Plaza Italia -







Botanical Gardens (again) but it's a good place for photos, sorry -







Remember kids: A penny saved is a penny earned. But a penny not spent is just so much shiny copper...
Jumpn2nsanity